The Fascinating Evolution of Waffles: From Ancient Roman Crustula to Modern-Day Delicacies
Fiona Nanna, ForeMedia News
7 minutes read. Updated 10:00PM GMT Wed, 4 September, 2024
Waffles, the iconic treat made from leavened batter cooked between patterned plates, boast a history that stretches back over millennia. From their beginnings as ancient Roman delicacies to their status as a global favorite, the evolution of waffles is as layered and complex as the treat itself.
Origin Story
The journey of waffles can be traced back to Ancient Greece, but their more direct ancestors were the “crustula” of Ancient Rome. Giorgio Franchetti, author of “Dining With The Ancient Romans,” suggests that these early Roman biscuits are likely the forerunners of the modern waffle. “Crustula were sweet biscuits adored by the Romans, crispy with a crumbly texture,” Franchetti tells CNN. These biscuits were made from simple ingredients such as flour, honey, and lard and were cooked in heated irons, much like today’s waffles.
Crustula, which might have resembled flat biscuits, were initially used in religious ceremonies and sold by street vendors near temples. Their popularity grew over time, with teachers rewarding students with these sweet treats as incentives to learn.
The Evolution of Taste
As the Roman Empire transitioned into the medieval period, so did the recipe for these beloved biscuits. Franchetti notes that the evolution from crustula to waffles likely occurred during the Middle Ages when the introduction of grooves marked a significant change. This period saw the development of “ferratelle,” a type of biscuit made in metal presses, or irons, which featured the grid pattern now synonymous with waffles.
Ferratelle, also known as pizzelle, maintained many characteristics of the ancient crustula but with added features such as the iconic waffle grooves. These biscuits were particularly popular during holidays and celebrations, often personalized with family insignia or initials.
Regional Variations and Modern-Day Treats
In Italy, ferratelle remain a cherished tradition. Dolci Aveja, a prominent pastry shop in L’Aquila, produces these biscuits using traditional methods and modern adaptations. The shop offers a variety of ferratelle, including those with cereals or a salty version with rosemary, often enjoyed with prosecco.
Locals in Abruzzo, where ferratelle are a staple, still adhere to traditional preparation rituals. The use of electric irons has modernized the process, but the cultural significance of making ferratelle remains strong. In Vasto, variations include dark chocolate toppings, known as “catarrette.”
Spread to Europe and Beyond
The spread of these ancient treats beyond the Roman Empire involved several key phases. As the Roman Empire fell, crustula evolved and integrated into the local cuisines of France, Benelux, and England. During the Middle Ages, honeycomb-patterned ferratelle made their way to Northern Europe through trade routes.
By the early 1600s, Dutch settlers in New York City introduced waffles to the American continent. August 24, the anniversary of the patent granted to Dutch-American Cornelius Swarthout for the first waffle iron in the US, is celebrated annually as National Waffle Day.
Today, waffles enjoy a worldwide presence, with variations found in countries across Europe, Asia, and the Americas. From their ancient Roman origins to their current global popularity, waffles have undergone a remarkable transformation, adapting to different cultures and tastes while retaining their core essence as a delightful treat.
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